Maison Louis Jadot has been in the Burgundy business since 1859, and their rustic-looking label is one of the most distinctive on UK shelves. Its bacchanalian little masonry-framed face pops up in Tesco and Waitrose, as well as in some of the better corner shops, and their range of wines covers a wide gamut of prices (Waitrose is currently selling one of their Pinot Noirs for £89 a bottle). But how does this budget Mâcon-Villages (a Chardonnay from southern Burgundy) perform alongside similar supermarket Chardonnays? Not that well, unfortunately.
The usual white Burgundy characteristics are there: fruity and unoaked, with pear and peach on the nose (check); pale gold colour (check); moderate to high acidity (check); citrus on the palate (check). But it lacks that knockout blow to the nose. I like my white Burgundys to jump out the bottle and seduce me with their palate of luscious, fleshy fruits. This one just doesn’t do that. It’s, if anything, too easy-drinking.
Sure, at the price I paid (£7 on special offer at Tesco), it’s good value, but there are better options available. Co-op’s Mâcon-Villages, for example, is regularly priced at £8, and offers a more satisfying glug. Other superior alternatives are the Bellingham Chardonnay from Stellenbosch (frequently reduced to £8 in Tesco) and even the Fat Bastard, which costs around a tenner.
A bit of a let-down then, but I’d like to try some of Louis Jadot’s pricier options to see how they compare.
Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages, 2016: 12.5% vol, £7 on special offer at Tesco. Also available at Waitrose, among others.
3.5 NINJA STARS
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