Aldi have the hip kids in their crosshairs with this Godello from Monterrei in northern Spain, just above Portugal.
“This is with-it white… as cutting edge as a samurai sword… massively in vogue… effortlessly cool,” boasts the blurb on the back on bold capitals. Yeah turn the volume down, we get it.
But can a wine be hip? And if so, what’s wrong with that? The copywriters are laying it on thick here, but look what happened with craft beer. That’s been rebranded with huge success. The Magners cider campaign a few years back was also a bit hit, albeit shortly lived. The upshot is… people love all that trendy stuff. At least, some people do.
“Hip” wine’s not a new concept, of course, New World producers have been knocking out quirky wine labels for years. At first I was a bit suspicious of them. Did their styling mask a lack of quality? Not always, it transpires. And now my feeling is that any move away from wine’s stuffy, snooty image is a welcome detour.
But ultimately it’s the substance, not the style, that counts, right? And does this Godello deliver? I really enjoyed it. I’d never had Godello before; it reminded me in some ways of a decent sauvignon blanc. It certainly delivered on the citrus, with notes of pear and apricot and an acidic, almost salty taste of the sea. So, perfect with sun and seafood. Most importantly, it’s excellent value at £6.49.
And for that reason I’m giving it…
4 Ninja Stars
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